The Factory Team SC10 4×4 is Team Associated’s Team-Level upgrade to the standard SC10 4×4. While the original truck was good, it did have a few faults that really kept its unique design from becoming mainstream. The A-Team designers have worked overtime and keyed into every little nuance that made this truck tricky to deal with; the result being a completely race-ready Factory Team version of the SC10 4×4. Follow along as CompetitionX builds this truck from parts bag to track terror.
The Build – Part 1
The steering is the first thing we need to build on the FT SC10 4×4. Because it is buried DEEP in the chassis, you will need to have your servo for the first part of this build.
To properly adjust the servo mounts and steering rack, you will need to build this step with some ‘temporary’ pieces. While they will be removed and not used further in the build, it’s probably a good idea to hang on to them…just in case.
Hopefully, since this is a high-end race truck, you have a decent set of drivers and wrenches. If not, AE has supplied a set of Allen keys and molded tools to get the job done. I would HIGHLY recommend getting a good set of tools, though.Let’s start off by taking the Steering Bellcrank Support and installing the small 3x8x4 bearings in it. Make sure the are fully seated. Slide the Steering Bellcrank Pin into the left bearing and slide the Servo Alignment Tool into place. Not the direction of the tab on the Bellcrank Support. Press the 2nd pair of 3x8x4 bearings into the upper Front Chassis Brace as shown. Slide the Steering Bellcrank Support up and into the upper Front Chassis Brace. The Bellcrank Pin should feed into the bearing in the brace. The tab on the Bellcrank Support should line up with the notch on the Chassis Brace. Attach the Front Inner Body Mount to the Chassis Brace. This will be removed later (as it is not needed) but used in this step to hold the Steering Bellcrank Support in place. Build the left and right Servo Mounts as shown. Attach the servo mounts to the Front Chassis Brace as shown. Lightly snug the screws down; do not overtighten. We need them to wiggle slightly to install the servo. Take your servo and ‘angle’ it into position so that the servo output gear feeds into the Servo Alignment Tool. Press the servo down and into place. If it is difficult, loosen the Servo Mounts slightly and try again. Your assembly should look like this. Press the servo forward into the Servo Alignment Tool and fasten into place with the 3x12mm screws. If there servo ‘backs out’ of the Alignment Tool, loosen the screws on the SIDE of the Servo Mounts, press the servo forward again and slide the SIDE Servo Mount pieces forward to take up the extra space. Another view of the servo correctly mounted. Once you’ve tightened everything down, remove the Front Inner Body Mount you installed in step 5. You may need to flex the Servo Alignment Tool to remove it. Also remove the Bellcrank Support and Bellcrank Pin from the assembly. Choose the correct Servo Horn that fits the servo you are using. Assemble as shown. At this time it’s also an EXCELLENT idea to test your electronics package. You’ll want to make sure your servo is centered before attaching the Servo Horn. Trust me, you don’t want to turn your SC10 4×4 on and find out your servo is not centered…you’ll say alot of bad words once you realize you have to disassemble ALOT of the truck to fix it. Once centered, attach the Servo Horn to your servo. Take a pair of pliers and gently squeeze your Servo Saver Spring two or three times. This helps ‘settle’ it. Slide the Steering Bellcrank Pin through the Steering Bellcrank. Take your Servo Saver Post and press it into the lower Servo Saver Arm. Tip: Take a little bit of black grease and squeeze it onto the Servo Arm as shown. This will help keep this high-friction area lubricated, even on the dustiest offroad tracks. Feed the 8mm ballend into the Upper Servo Saver Arm and slide onto the assembly as shown. Follow that up with the Servo Saver Spring, Servo Saver Cap and M4 Locknut. Tighten down until 1mm of threads is showning per the instructions. Since I’m using a heavy duty super duper XP DS1015 servo, I tightend mine down another 1/2 turn to make sure it’s nice and tight. Screw the 6mm HD ballstuds into place as shown. Slide the pair of Steel Hat Bushings into the Steering Rack… …and attach to the Servo Saver Arm and Steering Bellcrank Arm. You should be able to tighten down quite a bit but just make sure there is ZERO binding in the Steering Racks movement. Take your assembled steering rack and press the two Steering Bellcrank Pins into the Steering Bellcrank Support. Take that assembly and slide the Steering Bellcrank Pins into the bearings in the upper Front Chassis Brace. Make sure the actual rack is AWAY from the servo. Slide the 3x26mm screw through the Chassis Brace Ballstud Joint (and Chassis Brace Support) and screw that through the upper Front Chassis Brace and into the Steering Bellcrank Support. This locks the steering system to the Chassis Brace. Rotate the Steering Rack a few times to make sure there is no binding in its movement. If everything is A-Ok, complete this step by attaching the Steering Link (from the Servo Horn) to the Servo Saver Ballstud.
Stay tuned for Part 2 – Assembling the differentials.