10 RTR RC Upgrades Under $25 That Are Actually Worth Buying

RC cars often have a remarkable ability to turn a $300 RTR purchase into a $1000+ hobby roughly five minutes after opening the box.
New shocks. Aluminum everything. Faster servo. New motor. Carbon fiber parts you absolutely, positively need because, well, carbon fiber.
Fortunately, not every worthwhile RC upgrade requires handing over half your paycheck.
There are plenty of inexpensive upgrades that can improve reliability, handling, convenience or just make your RC experience a little better. I’ve picked 10 upgrades that can typically be found for around $25 or less and, more importantly, actually provide some benefit.
Will they transform your RTR into a National Championship-winning race car? Probably not. But it will allow more performance and you’ll still have money left over for lunch.
1. Better Bearings
Bearings aren’t exciting. Nobody has ever opened a package of bearings and yelled, “THIS IS GOING TO BE AWESOME!” But replacing worn RTR bushings or cheap bearings with a decent set of sealed bearings can reduce drivetrain friction and improve reliability.
This is particularly worthwhile on budget RTR vehicles that use bushings in some locations. Even if your ride already has bearings, replacing crunchy old ones can make the drivetrain noticeably smoother.
Best for: RTRs, bashers and older RC cars
Why it’s worth it: Smoother drivetrain and improved reliability
Search Bearings: www.amainhobbies.com
2. Aluminum Servo Horn
Many RTR vehicles come with a plastic servo horn or servo saver that works perfectly well, until it doesn’t.
An aluminum servo horn removes the flex from the steering system and can provide a more direct steering response. They’re inexpensive, simple to install and available in several spline counts. Beware using on a plastic-geared servo, however an absolute must-have for any metal-geared servo.
Just make sure you buy the correct spline count. A beautiful new 25T aluminum servo horn isn’t very useful when your servo wants a 23T.
Best for: Bashers, crawlers and performance builds
Why it’s worth it: Stronger and more precise steering
Search Aluminum Servo Horns: www.amainhobbies.com
3. Steel Pinion Gear
That inexpensive (and probably aluminum) stock pinion has a difficult life. Motor power, heat and questionable gear mesh decisions eventually take their toll. A quality hardened-steel pinion is inexpensive insurance and can last considerably longer than softer alternatives.
It’s also an opportunity to experiment with gearing, but remember that “bigger pinion = faster” eventually becomes “bigger pinion = why is my motor smoking?” Be sure to keep those motor temps in check.
Best for: Almost any electric RC
Why it’s worth it: Durability and inexpensive gearing options
Search Pinion Gears: www.amainhobbies.com
4. Adjustable Turnbuckles
Some entry-level RTR vehicles come with fixed suspension links. They’re simple and durable, but this also results in zero tuning options.
A set of adjustable turnbuckles lets you change camber and, depending on the vehicle, toe. Suddenly, you’re not just driving your RC car – you’re ‘tuning’ it.
Welcome to the rabbit hole.
Best for: RTR owners interested in suspension tuning
Why it’s worth it: Adds useful setup adjustability
Search Turnbuckles: www.amainhobbies.com
5. Aluminum Wheel Hexes
Plastic wheel hexes work fine until the edges round off, distort or become permanently attached to the wheel like they’ve signed a long-term lease.
Aluminum wheel hexes are inexpensive, durable and provide a more solid interface between the axle and wheel. They’re not going to make your ride noticeably faster, but they can eliminate one small plastic weak point in the drivetrain.
Best for: Bashers, crawlers and higher-powered vehicles
Why it’s worth it: Better durability with very little added weight
Search Aluminum Wheel Hexes: www.amainhobbies.com
6. Stronger Servo Saver
A servo saver has one job: protect your plastic-geared servo when the front wheels encounter something that refuses to move.
Like a curb.
Or a tree.
Or that pipe at the edge of the track that you definitely saw.
Some stock servo savers are overly soft and can make the steering feel numb. An upgraded unit can provide a better balance between steering precision and servo protection.
Best for: Bashers and RTR vehicles with sloppy steering
Why it’s worth it: More consistent steering while still protecting the servo
Search Servo Savers: www.amainhobbies.com
7. Motor Heat Sink
A simple aluminum motor heat sink can be a cheap addition for vehicles that regularly run warm.
Passive heat sinks increase the surface area available to dissipate heat, while versions with small fans can provide additional cooling. They’re particularly useful when you’re running in hot weather or pushing the gearing a little harder.
Just remember: a heat sink isn’t a magical cure for terrible gearing. If your motor is hot enough to cook lunch, it’s still best to figure out why.
Best for: Bashers and speed-oriented builds
Why it’s worth it: Helps manage motor temperatures
Search Motor Heat Sinks: www.amainhobbies.com
8. Better Body Clips or Body Clip Retainers
Body clips may be one of the cheapest parts on an RC car, yet they possess an extraordinary ability to vanish.
Drop one in grass and it’s gone.
Drop one in dirt and it’s gone.
Put one in your pocket and somehow – still gone.
Larger body clips, easy-grab versions or inexpensive clip retainers make removing the body easier or help keep the clips attached to the vehicle. Not exactly a performance upgrade, but you’ll appreciate it the next time you’re not digging in the grass looking for a tiny piece of shiny bent metal.
Best for: Everyone still using body clips
Why it’s worth it: Cheap convenience you’ll appreciate all the time
Search Body Clips: www.amainhobbies.com
9. Shock Boots
Shock boots are small fabric (or neoprene) covers that fit over your shocks and help keep dirt, dust and debris away from the shock shafts.
Do they look a little like your shocks are wearing tiny leg warmers?
Yes.
But keeping abrasive dirt away from the shock shaft and seals can help reduce wear, particularly on crawlers and bashers that spend their lives getting dirty. The 1980s fashion statement is just a bonus.
Best for: Crawlers, bashers and off-road vehicles
Why it’s worth it: Helps protect shock shafts and seals from dirt
Search Shock Boots: www.amainhobbies.com
10. LED Light Kit
We’re stretching the definition of “upgrade” slightly here, but inexpensive LED kits can be surprisingly useful.
Besides making your car (or truck) look considerably cooler, headlights and taillights make it easier to see the vehicle’s orientation when driving around at dusk or at night.
For crawlers and trail trucks, lights can be genuinely useful when you’re trying to get back to the parking lot after discovering that your “quick afternoon trail run” wasn’t actually quick.
And yes, adding lights will immediately make you want more lights. It starts with headlights. Next thing you know, your crawler can be seen from space.
Best for: Crawlers, trail trucks, bashers and scale builds
Why it’s worth it: Better visibility plus plenty of scale appeal
Search LED Lighting: www.amainhobbies.com
It’s easy to get carried away upgrading your RC car. We’ve all seen builds where almost every stock part has been replaced, and somewhere along the way you start wondering whether it would have been cheaper to just buy another car.
My advice? Don’t replace parts simply because an aluminum version exists. Drive the car first. Figure out what needs improvement, and spend your money there.
Good luck and enjoy your upgraded ride!
