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Home » RC Build Blog - Team Associated RC10 Buggy Build » Team Associated RC10 Classic Buggy Build – Part 4 – Rear Suspension / Turnbuckles

Team Associated RC10 Classic Buggy Build – Part 4 – Rear Suspension / Turnbuckles

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build

The Build – Part 4
In Part 4 of the RC10 Classic build, we attach the rear suspension and assemble the turnbuckles.

Build Notes:
Unlike current cars, the roll pins that feed through the rear axles are just that, rolled steel pins. They’re a pain in the butt to install and it is easy to pinch your fingers, so extreme care is suggested during this step.

The turnbuckles are also old skool…threaded rod with ball cups on each end. Care must be taken here as well to not damage the threads during assembly.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 57
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 57
We’ll start off this step with getting our hinge pins in order. There are 2 sizes; a short and a long. The short is your outer hinge pin, used out on the hub carrier. The longer one is your inner hinge pin, used to connect the suspension arm to the arm mount. Let’s grab the two long ones and attach an e-clip to one side.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 58
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 58
Slide the hinge pin through the arm/arm mount combo. The arms and mounts are directional so make sure you have the left arm mount with the left suspension arm and the right arm mount with the right suspension arm. Once assembled, secure the hinge pin with another e-clip.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 59
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 59
Attach both arm mount assemblies (right assembly to the right side, left assembly to the left side) to the chassis, as shown, using the forward set of holes.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 60
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 60
Press the four oilite bearings into the hub carriers as shown. Make sure they seat completely flat.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 61
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 61
Slide one of the 1/4 axle shims onto the axle, then slide that assembly through the hub carrier. Finish that off with 2 more 1/4 axle shims.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 62
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 62
Here is the tricky part. The roll pin is going to be a slight bit bigger than the hole it needs to go into. To make installation easier, crimp one edge of the roll pin slightly, making this end slightly smaller in diameter than the rest of the pin.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 63
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 63
Press the roll pin into the hole in the axle with the smaller edge. Make sure you force the smaller edge you created in step 62 into the hole first. Center the pin in the axle as shown. This will require a little bit of patience.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 64
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 64
Test fit the hub assembly into the rear wheel, making sure the roll pin completely fits in the groove. If not, try centering the pin again.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 65
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 65
Here is a picture of both of the assembled hub carriers.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 66
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 66
Grab the shorter hinge pin and attach an e-clip to one end. Now attach the hub carries to the rear suspension arms as shown and secure with another e-clip. Note the direction of the hub carrier, keeping the ball end facing towards the front of the car.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 67
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 67
The turnbuckles on the RC10 Classic consiste of 3 lengths of threaded rod. The shortest one connects the steering bellcranks, the 4 mid-length ones are for the camber links and the 2 longest ones are for the steering.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 68
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 68
Grab a pair of the mid-length rods and build a pair of links as shown. Use the manual-supplied gap of 14.2mm. A pair of gloves or a spare rag will help keep the ballcups from cutting into your hands as you build.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 69
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 69
Insert the dogbone springs into the rear axles as shown.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 70
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 70
Pop one end of the turnbuckle onto the inner ball stud. Insert the dogbone into the transmission outdrive, swing up the rear outdrive and key the dogbone into the rear axle. Finish this assembly by popping the ballcup onto the ball stud on the rear hub. Do this with both sides of the car.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 71
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 71
Grab the shortest-length threaded rod and build the drag link. The manual-supplied gap of 12.44mm is a good start.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 72
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 72
Pop the drag link onto the inner ball studs of the bellcrank as shown.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 73
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 73
Grab the final pair of mid-length threaded rod and build a pair of front camber links. Use the manual-supplied gap of 13.5mm.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 74
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 74
Pop the camber links onto the camber ball studs as shown.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 75
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 75
Grab the longest pair of threaded rod and build two steering links. The gap of 27.7mm is a good place to start.

Team Associated RC10 Classic Build - Step 76
Team Associated RC10 Classic Build – Step 76
Pop the steering links into place as shown.

Part 5 – Assembling the shocks.
Back to the Team Associated RC10 Classic Build List

About Tony Phalen

Tony Phalen - As an avid RC enthusiast, Tony has been building, bashing and racing RC Cars for over 25 years. He has raced everything from 1:18th scale trucks to 1:5 scale motorcycles and everything in-between. He's also worked on both sides of the industry fence; working at and with many major manufacturers (as well as being a sponsored driver) to working for a high-profile industry magazine. During this time he has learned many tricks, tips and techniques and has transferred that knowledge to CompetitionX - the most informative RC website on the internet!

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